Nestled in the heart of the Verde Valley, aptly named for the abundance of green-colored malachite ore encrusted in the surrounding mountains, the Verde Canyon has been considered by many as Arizona’s other grand canyon. This unique and protected ecosystem, unspoiled and rich in geological intrigue, beckons visitors to pique their senses with the adventure that lies ahead. Step aboard the Verde Canyon Railroad to begin the journey.
On departure, the train’s colorful narrator bids farewell to the mining town of Jerome, positioned majestically at 5,400 feet on Mingus Mountain. The rail line from Jerome, originally built to haul cooper ore to the Clarkdale smelter, is only a fleeting memory. However, the 40-acre man-made mountain of once molten rock and the haunting, old power plant still remain along the tracks of the Verde Canyon Railroad, gentle reminders of an industry that shaped an entire community almost a century ago.
Whether you’re riding in coach or first-class accommodations, the windows inside are large and panoramic, providing majestic views, all within climate-controlled cabins. For those passengers wanting to indulge all of the senses, the canyon is most enjoyable from the open-air viewing cars, accessible from all coaches. The moderate temperatures of the Verde Canyon make it possible for passengers to enjoy the comfort of the open-air cars in all seasons.
Before entering the inner chasm of the Verde Canyon, passengers stand in awe at a series of dwellings tucked into the cliffs looming above the track. Once a safe haven for the Sinagua Indians, the dwellings are a reminder that man has marveled at this landscape for centuries. Passing over the S.O.B. trestle, which traverses a small box canyon, passengers also marvel at the crystal clear waters of the Verde River, the canyon’s lifegiver, as it winds deeper into a basalt gorge.
The volcanic cliffs along the river provide another safe haven, this time for a resident pair of bald eagles who have produced seven eagles since 1993, sometimes in sets of twins. The only way to view these magnificent creatures, along with the multitudes of bald and golden eagles visiting the canyon each winter, is by train. The region also hosts other indigenous and migratory birds, including native quail, red-tailed hawks and a wide array of ducks, easily spotted from the train.
The Verde Canyon, adjacent to the Sycamore Wilderness, is a lively riparian sanctuary. Train passengers are likely to see deer and javelina along the river’s edge. Signs of beaver and otter have been observed, on occasion. The river itself is alive with minnows, native suckers, trout and smallmouth bass. The water sparkles over shallow rapids, where the Great Blue Heron is often seen fishing.
Astonishing colors
As the train penetrates the inner sanctum of the Verde Canyon, astonishing vermilion rock formations seem to touch the sky. Wind, water and time have eroded the crimson sandstone cliffs, creating tantalizing shapes and spires. The railroad track stays within 60 vertical feet of the upper Verde River for over 10 miles, on the 40-mile trek to the deserted Perkins Ranch and back.
Passengers are lulled as the wheels turn with elegant grace along the sturdy rails, ambience only a train can create, but the focus shifts as the whistles blows, signaling the tunnel ahead. A 680-foot pathway blasted through solid rock, carrying the train from the bright light of day to black, and back to brilliant sunlight. More Indian dwellings, a monocline fold and 50-foot canopies of cottonwoods are unveiled as the train’s narrator continues to weave colorful stories about the adventure ahead and the history that has gone before.
As the canyon walls begin to peel away, the train crosses a stoic steel bridge entering Perkinsville, the journey’s midpoint. The old working cattle ranch, settled by A.M. Perkins at the turn-of-the-century, was one of the sites for the classic film How the West was Won. The ranch is still a working ranch and was once a watering station for the great iron horses. It is still a remarkable western backdrop, as the Verde Canyon Railroad’s historic FP7 diesel engines switch from one end of the train to the other.
Passengers are given a second opportunity to absorb the beauty of the Verde Canyon or enjoy the amenities and comfort of their coaches, as the train embarks on its return trip to Clarkdale. Astute train attendants will convey a new impression of the beauty, the history, the wildlife and the spectacular scenery only the Verde Canyon can offer. As the train pulls into the station, passengers will debark knowing it’s not the destination, it’s the journey.
Note: Trains depart year-round on a varied schedule. The copper Spike Café, Boxcar Gifts and John Bell Museum are located in the Railroad’s southwestern-style depot built in 1997. Train fares are $59.95 first-class (all ages), $39.95 adult coach, $35.95 senior coach (65+) and $24.95 child coach (2-12). All enclosed cars access outdoor viewing cars. Admission to the museum is free.
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As the train penetrates the inner sanctum of the Verde Canyon, astonishing vermilion rock formations seem to touch the sky. Wind, water and time have eroded the crimson sandstone cliffs, creating tantalizing shapes and spires. The railroad track stays within 60 vertical feet of the upper Verde River for over 10 miles, on the 40-mile trek to the deserted Perkins Ranch and back.