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By Patrick Biddle Posted on Nature
 You exit the changing room, walk out along the rock path and come to your destination, a steaming pool of naturally heated water. You cleanse yourself, and then slip into the 100° F pool. A babbling stream runs past, and behind you is the trickle of the hot water entering via a small waterfall. Surrounding you is a border of rocks, which were carried down from the surrounding mountains, each chosen for its unique shape and color.
Along with the smell of sulfur emanating from the spring, you can smell nature all around; the smell of green, the smell of the Japanese mountains. Birds call out all around…. relaxation. Feel the tension leave your body. This is a Japanese onsen or natural hot spring. For a foreign visitor, this is perhaps one of the most memorable cultural experiences to be had in Japan, and one that will most certainly spoil you. There is no going back to a shower after experiencing the heat and healing of an onsen.
Japan is a very geologically active country, evidenced by its many earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. The archipelago lies on one of the more active portions of the notorious Ring of Fire. Here the Pacific Plate and the Philippine Plate are subducted under the Asian Plate. The resulting friction and fracturing give birth to Japan’s many volcanoes, and likewise its hot springs. Japan’s symbol to the world, Mt. Fuji, was born from such activity, and although technically dormant, seems to be on the road to such activity once again. Water seeping into the many faults and fissures of this volcanic setting comes back up as superheated water (often 100-plus degrees F). There are thousands of such exit points in Japan where one can soak in developed or undeveloped pools.
These springs come in many different varieties. Some are clear; others can be milky-white, brownish, or even blackish, depending on the minerals they contain. They are most often located in the most scenically beautiful areas as well. One may bathe under Mt. Fuji, or along the craggy coast of the Shiretoko Peninsula in eastern Hokkaido. Bathe with monkeys in Nagano, or in the seaside pools at low tide on the southern island of Yakushima. If one is lucky, there will be an outdoor pool, or rotemburo, in addition to the indoor pool. This is where hot springing and a nature walk come together into a truly fulfilling experience. Even better, put that same outdoor pool next to a river or waterfalls, and you are in heaven. Each type of onsen provides its own unique experience. You cannot go wrong.
The onsen culture is well developed in Japan. Most hot springs are privately run. The best are those bathing facilities that are complimented by beautiful traditional structures. One may spend a whole day relaxing at some of the more developed spas. Many provide lodging as well. For those who wish not to stay at one particular onsen, most offer the one-day visit, or higaeri option. The price typically ranges from 300 to 1,000 yen ($3-9 U.S.). It is important to note that onsen refers to a natural onsen, that is one that’s source is a volcanically related spring. There are also many sentou, or unnatural source public bathhouses, in Japan, where you can experience the hot spring, but without the sulfur smell. They can be equally enjoyable.
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