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By Fisher Posted on History
 It goes without saying that Madrid and Barcelona steal the limelight with regards to Art Centres in Spain. However many of Spain’s provinces also play host to some of Spain’s finest art treasures. Even those that would not be considered “modern day” Art Centres but centuries old humble beginnings and the foundation stones of Spain art world as we know it today.
“Look Dad, they're cows! (Mira, Papa, son bueyes)”. The cave paintings at Altamira discovered by an 8 year old girl in 1879. The Altamira site is one of the greatest collections of cave paintings ever discovered. One critic called the cave the “Sistine Chapel of the Quaternary”. The paintings of bison, red deer, boar and horses date from 14,000 years ago, and were saved from the ravages of time and erosion by an earlier landslide, which left them entombed and protected.
Then we have the beautiful frescoes at the Basilica of St Isidore in Leon. Sometimes referred to as the “Romanesque Sistine Chapel”, painted around 1190 in this mausoleum of early Spanish Kings.
So as you see important works of art can be found just about everywhere in Spain. Be it by authors such as Goya, Murillo, Zubaran, Picasso, Monks or Cave Dwellers. It is all important and has played its part in what we today call ART. As well as the wonderful museums, many housed in historical buildings which in their own right are an architectural delight, a considerable amount of important works of art can be found by visiting any one of Spain Palaces, Stately Houses, Cathedrals and Churches large and small.
On a recent visit to the Casa Pilatos (supposedly getting its name from the fact that the architecture of the house is based on that of the house of Pontius Pilot!) in Sevilla I stumbled upon a painting that caught my attention along with the incredible tile-work that this Palacete is re-known for. When I asked one of the guides about this painting I was told that it was a replica of a painting called La Mujer Barbuda (The Bearded Lady) and represents, yes you have it, a bearded woman with child in arms. Not to strange taking into account that anything goes these days you may say, and I agree with you. However this painting was painted in 1631 by a painter called Jose de Ribera. The original I was told could be found in the Hospital de Tavera in Toledo.
Now if you have ever been to the city of Toledo – the city that El Greco chose as his home – you will undoubtedly have visited the small church of Santo Tome. It is here where the masterpiece of El Greco The Burial of Count Orgaz can be found. I certainly hope that when you were there you took the time to visit the Cathedral, which apart from obviously being a place of Worship, its works of art, in my opinion, puts it in the category of one of Spain’s finest art museums. With works by El Greco, Goya, Velazquez to name but a few and also non-Spanish artists such as Caravaggio and Titian.
On one occasion when I found myself with a little free time in Toledo I decided to hunt out the painting by Ribera that had drawn my attention and bewilderment many months before in Sevilla. So off I go in search of the Hospital de Tavera, built according to my investigations between 1541 and 1599. Up to the door I walked and followed the instructions to ring the bell. About 5 minutes later a tiny, old, Spanish lady opened the door and let me in. A huge bunch of old keys in hand she first ushered me to the crypt and waited at the top of the stairs while I admired the tomb of Cardinal Tavera, founder of this former Hospital. I must admit I was having a few palpitations and weird thoughts about her creaking the door shut. She then took me to see the paintings, including of course the painting that I had gone especially to see.
This, my friends, is a story I could relate on many occasions of how I have discovered many wonderful works of art in Spain. Something which on one hand fills me with sadness for art lovers who perhaps never have the chance to see or even know about these hidden gems. Yet on the other hand I am pleased that they stay in their original surroundings, waiting for new, eager eyes to fall upon them with the same surprise and delight at the discovery as I felt. I will give you a tip. Not far from Toledo is a small town called Illescas where there is a tiny church called the Hospital de la Caridad. Here you can also find 5 exquisite Grecos.
I have often smiled when I have read in guide books “If the door is closed go and knock on house number 4 and ask for the keys” or “ask for Pepe at the Hostel and he will give you the keys”. Well judging by my experience – DO IT!
Of course I cannot conclude this article without mentioning the many places of art to be found in Madrid and Barcelona, even though I want the article to encourage the reader to discover Spain’s art off the beaten track.
Three of Madrid's (and indeed Spain’s) finest art museums you will find in what is known as the Art Triangle. All within a few minutes walk from each other. The Prado, the Reina Sofia and the Thyssen Bornemisza. Gone are the little old ladies guarding the treasure, substituted by security guards and scanners.
Without any doubt, the Prado is one of the world's most important museums since it opened in 1819 (when it became one of the world's first public art galleries). Whenever I visit I always feel a little overwhelmed to the point that I now decide before hand on the paintings that I wish to see/study and in this way I stagger my digestion of the museum. The Prado contains over 9.000 works, mainly paintings, of which only about 1500 can be displayed at any one time. I understand that many who visit the museum will only ever have one opportunity. To them I say think before hand what you most wish to see. Of course amongst your choice should be Las Meninas by Velazquez and The Third May and La Maja Desnuda by Goya.
The Thyssen Bornemisza is a museum that you can enjoy in a morning. Strangely enough of the three my favourite is the Reina Sofia which dedicates its space to a modern, contemporary type of art, including the magnificent Guernica by Picasso.
In total contrast to the majority of Madrid’s museums, Barcelona is definitely the cradle of 20th century art, thanks to the genius of Dali, Miro and Picasso. Where does one begin to explain Barcelona – Art and Architecture all around. A must to visit when you are there is of course the Picasso Museum but also make sure that you reserve a day to visit the town of Figueres, a short train ride away, to visit the Dali Museum.
While we are on the subject of Picasso a new Picasso Museum was opened just under two years ago in the city where he was born, Malaga. A visit to the museum, like the one in Barcelona, can be greatly enhanced by visits to other places of interest that are related to the life of Picasso. The house where he was born for instance.
I am lucky to be able to call the city of Malaga my home. I have always found Picasso a little hard to understand. When I first saw his early paintings my first reaction (sorry if I offend some) was wow he can paint! Recently I was walking past the house where he was born, in the Plaza de la Merced, a square full of pigeons and doves. Any of you who are familiar with Picasso will understand when I say that I though I was walking across one of his canvases. Obviously he did not mean for us to see the subject of his paintings as a sheer one dimensional image. But as something with personality and mood swings, making the viewer question it. Each time I visit his museums or see his paintings I get a different impression or come to a different conclusion as to why he painted it the way he did. I have never felt this way about any other painter and have found that since I have opened my mind to his paintings I have transformed from being not a particular fan, I would even go as far as saying having an unjustified dislike of Picassos work to truly enjoying them.
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