As a Parisian dweller, I would like to share with you my vision of Impressionism, and maybe give you some hints as how best to explore it if you happen to visit our capital.
Impressionism was born in Paris. Art history books report that the technique has been first embodied in Manet’s painting Lunch on the grass, exhibited in 1863. In this work, the lines are forgotten. Form, structure and contour as developed from the Renaissance have disappeared. He flattened the form, and gave a snapping presence to the main characters by using a reduced and contrasted number of shades. Then, in 1874, a journalist willing to ridicule a Monet’s painting named Impression – Sunrise has quite involuntarily created the name of this new painting style, “Impressionism”.
It is fascinating to imagine how this movement, that carries so much “joie de vivre”, could arise. Encounters of good luck have played a great role, as well as the places that were attracting international artists. Monet, who was already a friend of Pissarro, met Renoir and Sisley when taking painting lessons at the Gleyre studio. Then, they became friends with Manet and Degas. At Café Gerbois, they met Cezanne, Fantin-Latour, Jongkind, and Boudin. Caillebotte joined them and helped them to set up their exhibitions. Gauguin started to take painting lessons with Pissarro, before taking part in the exhibitions. Van Gogh will discover and integrate the Impressionism only in 1886. Paris offered meeting places, a social life mixing painters, writers, a few scientists, and the large collections of Le Louvre museum offered a fertile study hall for painting students.
These people shared the ideas of their contemporaries. They continued the mission of their Realists forerunners by trying to depict scenes just as they perceived them it. The Impressionists prized the instantaneous impact. They used the latest scientific observations about juxtaposition of colors from a chemist named Chevreul, stating that the shade of an object is influenced by that of the surrounding objects. They studied complementary colors, the effects of light, and re-examined shadows. They realised that our impressions are constantly changing depending on the natural light at different times of days and with various viewing angles. Often working outdoors, the Impressionists strove to depict scenes as if the observer was enveloped by nature and exposed the immediate sensations.
Impressionists were very sensitive to their environment. Aware of the technological changes in progress, they decided to observe every detail. They selected scenes drawn from the contemporary middle-class Parisian life, and were very curious about morals, habits, and tastes. Their paintings represented the atmosphere and climate of the places. Far from idealistic, historic or literary representations, they focused on the attitudes of their neighbours, their immediate environment, taking real shots of urban or natural life, on the principle of photography.
They started to organize exhibitions in 1874 under the name of “The Independents”. Freedom above all… As if their sensitivity could be exerted only on an individual basis. The artist gained his independence, and ceased to obey the supposedly noble or understandable collective causes. In 1886, as they started to be accepted as serious artists by most critics and by a large part of the public, they split to develop individual styles.
Where to see the masters’ pieces
Two museums hold a great proportion of the permanent Impressionist collections from France.
The first place is the Orsay museum, of which I am totally fond. Formerly a train station, today it is dedicated to the travel of the senses. The building evokes the glory of the XIXth century and its location, facing the Louvre on the other side of the Seine, is perfect. The Orsay's juxtaposition to the cathedral of Old Masters, announces to the world, "I represent the ideas and the people of my time, and we gained our autonomy from the ancient world".
This Mecca of Impressionism will let you see Lunch on the grass by Manet, Ball at Moulin de la Galette, Montmartre by Renoir, Auvers-sur-Oise church by Van Gogh, Van Gogh’s bedroom at Arles by Van Gogh, Poppies near Argenteuil by Claude Monet, The dancing class by Edgar Degas, The circus by Georges Seurat… and so many others.
Face the Poppies by Monet, and you feel as if you were walking in the field. The sun shines on you skin from Renoir's The Ball at Moulin de la Galette. The Magpie, by Monet, sitting on the fence is a black spot surrounded by snow. The impression of cold is immediate. Impressionistic works reflect a joyful dancing atmosphere here, the smiling Renoir girls with pink cheeks there, Degas’s graceful dancers — no matter the topic, your senses are delighted. The art form of Impressionism resides in the very strong, immediate impact the work has on us. Nature is painted simply, a fantastic and singular “impression” of the moment.
The second place is the Marmottan museum, next to Monceau park. This mansion holds the world’s largest collection of Monet’s paintings. All his periods are represented. You may admire Impression – Sunrise, and numerous water lilies painted in Giverny, all astounding in beauty. In the last period in his life, with the water lilies, Monet reached the ultimate impressionist approach — at seeing his paintings, you are surrounded by only water and flowers. The museum also holds the largest collection of Berthe Morisot’s paintings, whose delicacy is an enchantment, as well as numerous other Impressionist paintings.
This year, 2006, don’t miss the exhibition “Cézanne and Pissarro – 1865-1885”, in celebration of the 100th anniversary of Cézanne’s death (from the 28th of February to the 28th of May), in the Orsay Museum.
Follow the spurs of the Impressionists
I would like to invite you to wander on the very places the Impressionists have painted. Whether you are interested in history or just want to check your personal feeling about these places, the following places are worth seeing.
From Musée d’Orsay, admire the view of the Louvre’s pavilion de Flore and Royal bridge, as Pissarro did. Cross the river and arrive at Tuileries’s garden, which has been depicted by Monet. Imagine a concert here, and you will feel something of the atmosphere depicted in Music at the Tuileries by Manet. While walking along the Seine, you are sure to meet the places immortalized by such artists as Signac (Arts bridge), Pissarro (Pont-Neuf), and Caillebotte (Europe bridge).
In Les Halles area, walk along rue Montorgueuil, which Monet painted crowded and decorated with flags. and the St-Lazare train station depicted by Manet, Monet and Caillebotte. A personal tip: take a stop at Stohrer (51) and try the historic pastry called “puits d’amour”. Enjoy this highspot for a gastronomical discovery and feel the inspiration of ages past.
Many grand monuments and places have also been represented, Concorde Place by Degas, the Champs-Elysées by Renoir, the Eiffel Tower by Signac.
For a more intimate impression of time and place visit the Garnier Opera. The interior, dancers and orchestra were so often depicted by Degas, but also influenced Renoir in The Dressing Room and Manet in Fancy Dress Ball at the Opera. The red chairs of Garnier, and the atmosphere of the 19th century have remained.
However, the most notable place, in which the Impressionists and their immediate followers have lived and worked is Montmartre. They met in cafés such as Café Gerbois on the Avenue de Clichy, and la Nouvelle Athènes at Pigalle place. They depicted Montmartre nightlife and its people in The Moulin de la Galette (Renoir), Folies-Bergère (Manet), The Lapin Agile (Othon Friesz) and Moulin Rouge (Toulouse-Lautrec). Many artists had their workshop in this village-like area, a unique city of artists.
Don’t listen to those who say that because of the tourist attraction, Montmartre has lost its artistic life. I can tell you, as a true Parisian inhabitant, that many artists from today, comedians, cineasts, painters…still choose to live there. This community is discreet and invisible to the one-day-visitors who are sipping a coffee at Tertre place, but it still lives as in a village.
If you have half a day or a full day free, take a ride to Giverny and visit Monet’s house and gardens. The Impressionists have mainly painted nature scenes, and Monet enjoyed the last years of his life in this house. His works on water lilies were painted in the garden. You will see the Japanese bridge, and maybe water lilies, depending on the season. Compaire your feelings from the paintings with the ones from the real scene, and enjoy the contact with nature that enchanted Monet. In Giverny near Monet’s house, you may visit the Museum of American Arts, which presents 19th century American painters and celebrates relations between American and French artists of this period.
If you are a Van Gogh’s admirer, you can take another ride to Auvers-sur-Oise, just to see the places he has painted.
Experience by yourself
After having seen the masters’ pieces, and visited the places where all that took place, I would entice you to live the Impressionist attitude. Impressionism shows us an approach to appreciate life. The traveller who wants to enjoy his time in Paris without stress, while catching unique moments and building for himself long-lasting memories, is like the Impressionist painter fixing a scene on his canvas.
What do you feel at the present time? Breathe the air, observe the passers-by around you, open your senses, meet people…The Impressionist experience starts for you at this very moment…
You may rent an apartment, or take a room, buy bread and croissants at the time French people do. Go in cafés at 6:pm, observe the people, create contact opportunities to share the life of this city. You may wander through the markets, ask for information on the products, and try them. Above all, realize that the moment you live is unique, and that you are alone at your very place at this very moment. The Impressionists have not only painted public places: they have depicted many intimate scenes, and above all landscapes. Within their perceptions, far from any historical point of view…
If you want to go deeper in the experience, I may suggest you to enjoy the creative energy of the city as the Impressionists did by meeting a Parisian living artist.
In 1933 “Montmartre-aux-Artistes” was built. Still used today as a residence dedicated to artists, each artist has a duplex studio to work and eventually live in. I know a few of them, and they would leave the place for nothing on earth, they enjoy so much living in the neighbourhood of other artists.
Paris has other artistic residences, and many artists have independent workshops. In addition to Montmartre, other neighbourhoods are known to welcome many artists; Belleville and Montreuil for example. I believe that contact with the artists open the eyes and the senses to other perceptions and understandings. You see the artwork, you talk about it and share views, you meet the person in his or her life. It is rare if you won’t learn something about a human approach of life.
As I try to share it with my readers and guests, Impressionism is a hymn to freedom and personal experience. It is particularly nice to enjoy it while visiting Paris.
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