In November 2003, I finally escaped Southern California, packed up my “priceless” possessions, including Sam and Alex, my black and white female cats and moved to Santa Fe. As much as I love all the charming little shops around the Plaza, and great downtown-area places to eat authentic New Mexican comidas such as Josephina’s (enchiladas and soipapillas to die for), Maria’s (marguerita’s and chile rellenos), and heading north, about 15 miles, Gabriel’s (custom table-made guacamole), after visiting Santa Fe proper for so many years, I began to wonder what lay behind those sanguine picturesque Sangre de Cristo mountains in the distance. If you have a desire to venture out of town, take this charming “loop” drive from Santa Fe - about 17 miles from north St. Francis Drive, on Highway 84/285 - to Highway 503.
Driving out of Santa Fe, you can’t miss three recently constructed striking steel overpasses, The first one, painted a dusky rose, is painted with whimsical native folk art animals, with the words TIERRA SAGRADA on one side, and PAZ, on the other. Up the road, just before Camel Rock Casino, the second one, painted an earthy yellow color, has the words K’UUYEMUGEH painted across the upper horizontal part of the bridge. This area is also referred to as Cayumunge, meaning “place of the falling rock”. The sides of the overpass are painted with contrasting blue and red Corn Maidens, as well as other folk art native designs.
Further up the road, the third overpass, POSUWAEGEH, is painted an ochre color with red sun-like symbols or “whirling logs”. POSUWAEGAE means “place to drink water”. The Pojoaque Pueblo owns and operates the surrounding casinos, hotel, and restaurants. The Pojoaque Market is a popular place with locals. Try their homemade Mexican deli items, such as breakfast burritos made fresh daily, as well as their well-stocked supermarket, where you can buy treats such as northern New Mexico Cherry Cider and local red and green chile.
Beyond Pojoaque, the landscape really opens up, unveiling limitless ascending hills and rocky plateaus in the distance. I discovered this “back road” trip one day heading up to Chimayo from Namb́e where I live.
Highway 503 takes you through some of the most beautiful countryside in Santa Fe county. Gigantic cottonwood trees arch over the road, as you wind up and around the Namb́e Pueblo area. Homesteads line both sides of the road; corrals for horses and livestock, tall pointed aspen and mesquite pole “coyote” fences that are so prevalent in New Mexico. A short distance ahead is the turn off to Namb́e Trading Post, where an elderly gentleman called “Coyote” and his wife; both in their nineties, still run their historic trading post.
Puffy white clouds rise above indigo mountain peaks and lush green hillsides appear in the distance. The road turns north to a different, dusty, adobe-colored landscape.
Piñion and trees line the two lane highway; you’ll find adobe rock formations adorned with sacred crosses. There is a sense of being out in the middle of nowhere. The scenery is spectacular. You might think you are on a pilgrimage to an unknown destination. Being away from the crowded city you can almost experience how it was hundreds of years ago. A beautiful barren quality prevails in this pinion wilderness.
Reaching the quaint town of Cundiyo, slowing down is a must. Only a quaint, one-lane road accommodates both directions for cars. On your left you’ll see a house with one fuel pump, which appeared to serve as a gas station at one time. It may be now extinct, but it sure is a charming sight.
Cundiyo is a tiny, charming town; many a happy dog will greet you if you stop and get out of your car. Leaving Cundiyo, there is a colorful art gallery on your right, and a unique display of skulls adorning an old house on the left. Continuing on 503, head a few miles more up the road and you will see the sign for the Santa Cruz Lake turnoff. Be on the lookout – it’s a sharp left turn. Plan on driving about 10 mph, because the windy road trip to the Lake is very curvy. The lake is surrounded by luscious cottonwoods, and a small campground. After you’ve given Santa Cruz lake a look around, head back up to the main highway.
You’ll see a green sign that reads “Taos/Truchas” and “Espanola”. Turn left at the sign towards Española. The road heads west, and lacy willow trees and pastures, complete with cows and livestock abound. Winding your way through the Chimayo countryside, you’ll find a plethora of weaving studios, as the town is quite well-known for its famous Chimayo weavings. Heading towards Española, fruit stands are dotted here and there, and depending on the season you visit, fresh apples, cherries, and local produce abound. Residents set up stands on their property, so you can get to know the growers. Being a California native, a locally grown pesticide-free apple is a rare treat. These are some of the best apples I’ve ever tasted; Red delicious, Yellow delicious, Winesap and another smaller local apple called “August”. Even more exciting was finding out that locally grown cherries abound in northern New Mexico.
Continuing along 503, towards Espanola, you won’t want to miss the sight of Chimayo Chile Rojo Tavern, adding to the historic touch to your journey. There are many pottery shops and quaint countryside vendors selling rich dark red chile ristras, and fresh crop piñion nuts. Dappled sunlight appears through colossal cottonwoods.
A few miles ahead, a must see is the Santa Cruz de la Canada church, constructed in the 1730’s, one of the oldest churches in New Mexico.
Excellent northern New Mexican dishes can be found at El Paragua, in Española. After a summer day’s drive, a frosty margarita at their historic bar sounds like a hit. Their sister fast-food restaurant El Parasol, is known for their tacos, and is right next door for a quick meal to take out. Down the road, stop at the historic Chimayo Trading Post for an eclectic mix of antiques, local pueblo pottery and free coffee. If you missed the local ristra vendors in Chimayo, there’s Arlo’s Produce just ahead, and they will even ship chile ristras for you.
Before you reach the end of the “loop” at Nambe´, stop at Santa Fe Vineyards and Winery for local and specialty wines. Across the highway, at Naranjo’s Trading, you will find not only an unusual collection of pawn and contemporary jewellery and outstanding pueblo pottery, but Naranjo’s is a direct local supplier of items such as fox tails, beaded items, feathers and bells for the Eight Northern Pueblo’s dancers costumes.
There is so much to do and see in northern New Mexico. And I am sure you’ll find a sense of the real Old New Mexico ~ a beautiful place, full of timeless grace.
