Mere mention of the Trans-Siberian Express conjures up images of the romance of travel on one of the world’s legendary trains. In reality there is no such train as the Trans-Siberian. The term actually applies to the tracks that span Russia from Moscow in the European east to Vladivostok on the Pacific Coast in the Asian Far East. The premiere train that traverses this route is named the Rossiya (Russia) and it takes seven days to cover the 5,777-mile journey through seven time zones.
During the long eastward journey, the Rossiya crosses from Europe into Asia. The continental boundary, in the low-lying Ural Mountains, is marked by an obelisk close to the track. When I travel with a group I make a point to give the train driver a little gift at the station before the obelisk and ask him to slow down as we approach it so that his foreign guests may admire the monument. Then we all gather round the picture windows or in the dining car to toast the crossing with a glass of champagne – or vodka for the Russophiles!
Along the way through Siberia the scenery ranges from mundane to spectacular, but it is always interesting. Like staring at a fire, looking out of a train window can keep one occupied for hours and prove to be very relaxing. The overworked and overstressed members of our modern economy should consider a long train ride as a recuperative experience. Also, I've noticed that highways tend to run in front of buildings, while train tracks usually go past the back. I find this offers a more fascinating perspective on life in Russia. Then there are the countless Dr. Zhivago-like villages, with their traditional log houses. I especially enjoy seeing these predominantly blue and green-colored wooden houses with their ornate window shutters during the winter months. Nestled in the pure white snow, with comforting plumes of smoke rising from their chimneys, one can visualize a babushka inside and almost smell the pot of hot, tasty borscht she is preparing.
Halfway along the journey is the impressive Lake Baikal. It does not cover as large a surface area as some of the Great Lakes, but it is much deeper and contains about a fifth of the world's fresh water. The water in the lake is mainly from glacial run-off and is incredibly clear. A small limnological (study of freshwater lakes) museum in the fishing village of Listvyanka on the lake shore houses an impressive collection of flora and fauna unique to the lake. From Baikal the train weaves through rugged mountain ranges, then passes Ulan Ude the capital of the Buryat Autonomous Republic, home to native people who resemble Mongolians.
The next major point is the Jewish Autonomous Region, originally created in the 1930's by Stalin. Successful early on at attracting Jews from all over the world, it soon declined. Nowadays less than 4% of the population is Jewish. For the final day and a half the train hugs the border with China on its way down to the naval port of Vladivostok. The station building at this eastern terminus of the great railroad was restored a few years ago to its turn-of-the-century Italianesque splendor. On the platform is a small pillar marking the visit of Tsar Nicholas II in 1891 to lay the foundation stone.
Stepping off after seven days on board a train, one feels a sense of accomplishment at having crossed two continents and seven time zones. Then, as the friendly sleeping car attendant waves goodbye, you remember how she told you she has one day to get the car ready before she spends seven more days on the way back to Moscow.
